Archive for the ‘Home Health Issues’ Category

Termites aren’t your only problem…

Termites aren’t the only pests that can cause problems in your home—they’re just the ones that get all the press from pest control companies. Today we’re going to discuss some of the other pests you’ll want to keep a weather eye out for…

There are other wood-destroying bugs you need to be aware of.

A few pests you would do well to be aware of:

Wood-Boring Beetle

Ever noticed tiny holes in your wooden furniture? Beware, this damage normally indicates a wood-boring beetle of some sort has moved in. These guys are tiny, black, and difficult to see, but if you don’t catch them fast you can say goodbye to the furniture or parts of your home that they infest.

Carpent Bee

Another one to watch out for is the Carpenter Bee – it looks something like a Bumblebee but it’s yellow band isn’t as bright. They chew into unfinished wood, (they have trouble biting into painted wood), usually from the bottom of the board. They tunnel vertically for about an inch, and then change their direction to horizontal. After tunneling along the board for a while they’ll lay their eggs before backing out and hiding their eggs with the wood dust they created while chewing away at your home.

Carpenter Ant

Then there’s the Carpenter Ant—much easier to spot because of it’s size. These pests will bore into trees or nearby structures. They don’t eat the wood but their tunneling will destroy your tree or structure.

The Termite

And of course, there’s the termite. Termites will invade from underground, starting at your home’s foundation and eat their way upward into the walls of your home.

The first step in protecting your home from wood damaging insects is in learning to identify the destroyers

It’s a good idea to perform a regular inspection of your home and any out-buildings and trees. Make sure to include the foundation of your home in your inspection – get into the crawl space and look closely. Be sure to include the foundation of your home in your inspection – get into the crawl space and look closely.

Learning to recognize the presence of each of these different pests could save you the cost of pricey repairs to the areas of your home damaged  by these unwanted pests.

Concrete cracks…

It’s a law of nature, concrete cracks. Cracks in your foundation don’t mean that it’s strength has been threatened— reinforced steel in the concrete will maintain the integrity of your foundation. But there’s another problem…

So what’s the big deal?

Unfortunately these cracks allow water to enter into your home and by now we all know that where there’s water – the ever opportunistic mold will follow closely there after.

Moral of the story? You need to fix those cracks ASAP!

If your basement is covered with a waterproof membrane cracks probably won’t be an issue for you – providing, of course, that the cracks are not TOO large. If they are, chances are that the membrane will tear and you’ll find yourself with a moisture problem after all.

3 questions to ask yourself…

When evaluating the cracks in your basement you need to ask yourself these 3 questions:

• Where is the crack?
• How big is the crack, both vertically and horizontally?
• How active is the crack?

The answers to these questions will determine how you deal with the crack.

1) Where is the crack?

Cracks in the floor where you intend to install vinyl, tile or wood flooring could damage or destroy your flooring. Cracks in the walls could crack and possibly crumble tile and grout. Cracks in the footing could indicate structural problems.

2) How big is the crack?

Size matters! Small cracks can be sealed, as explained below. Larger cracks may require a professional to assess and repair.

3) Is it an active crack?

An active crack is one that opens up time and again after you’ve repaired it. If this is the case it’s probably a good idea to call in a professional to assess the situation and advise you on what you should do next.

Is that crack structural?

There are a few easy ways to determine if a crack in your foundation is structural, and therefore more cause for concern, or simply just a crack that you can repair.

If you see any of the following it’s a good idea to contact a professional to determine if the crack is serious or not, and how best to fix it:

• The crack runs on a severe diagonal
• Horizontal cracks in a foundation wall indicate a serious problem
• Crack widths that increase over time
• Cracks with widths in excess of 3/4″

Okay, how can I fix small cracks?

It’s possible to prevent moisture problems by fixing the crack(s) from the inside of your basement. This is a cost effective and quick method that avoids the need for disturbing the soil and landscaping outside of your home.

This repair is done by injecting an expanding urethane foam into the crack. The foam enters the crack as a liquid and when it encounters water it begins to foam and expand, forcing the foam to completely fill the crack from top to bottom, front to back. Once dried, the foam will keep the water on the outside of your foundation, where it belongs.

The size of the crack doesn’t matter, if water can seep through the crack so can the foam – you won’t have to do any drilling or chiseling to make the crack wider.

If your concrete is dry at the time of repair all you need to do is spray about 1/2 cup of water into the crack with a spray bottle to make the concrete wet inside before applying the urethane foam.

Once the foam has hardened and prevented water from seeping in you’re ready to do whatever you’d like in your basement.

Okay, now you’re ready— go out there and conquer those concrete cracks!

How to Get Your Basement Dry and Keep It That Way

A leaky basement can be a nightmare: the pervasive damp can cause mold growth and musty smells, items stored down there can be ruined, and the foundation can even be damaged by persistent water!

If you have moisture, drips, seepage, or other water related issues in your basement, you need to get it sealed and dried out fast, before major problems develop.

A wet basement isn’t the end of the world, though: there are a number of solutions to get your basement dry, and keep it that way.

The first step to eliminating your basement moisture problem is identifying the source of the water. Once you have located where the water is entering the building, you can more accurately resolve the issue.

The following basement drying strategies are grouped by the source of the water to help you easily connect the appropriate solution to your particular problem.

Drainage Problems

Exterior drainage issues can be a major source of water in your basement; if water is not properly diverted away from your foundation, it can frequently work its way inside. If you notice water flowing toward your house on rainy days, have blocked or malfunctioning gutters, or observe signs of erosion around your house, you likely have drainage problems.

Some drainage issues are simple to resolve: if your gutters aren’t working, clean and repair them. Pay special attention to downspouts, and be sure that they are directing water away from your house, not toward it!

Other drainage issues can be more difficult to resolve; if your gutters aren’t the source of your drainage issue, you’ll want to consult a professional basement waterproofing company. They will be able to identify problematic water patterns and correct them with exterior diversion methods, which frequently require grading and installing bubblers and other water redirection systems.

Basement Leaks

Water can also work its way into your basement through cracks or crevices in your foundation. This type of problem usually manifests itself as a visible break or fracture, a trickle of water, or a damp spot.

Keep in mind that basement leaks can also be caused by a porous foundation: there doesn’t necessarily have to be a split for water to be seeping in. If you’ve located an actual crack, you can use one of several basement sealing compounds to fill it in. However, if you determine that water is leaking in through the walls of the basement itself, you’ll need to take more thorough measures.

You have a number of options for waterproofing your basement: vinyl wall sheeting, epoxy wall/floor paint, and exterior membranes are among the most popular. If you’re uncomfortable tackling the job yourself, a waterproofing specialist can provide professional basement sealing results.

Flooding

Sometimes, no matter how good your yard drainage or how carefully your basement has been sealed, water gets in. Whether the result of a burst pipe, torrential rains, or a creek breaching its banks, floods happen.

If you live in a flood-prone area, or just want to be prepared in case of disaster, you can mitigate the severity of basement floods. While most basement moisture issues are addressed after-the-fact, you’ll get the best results if you’re proactive with regard to basement floods.

For small amounts of water, interior drain tiles will usually do the job: consider this method if you have a toilet that frequently overflows, or a washing machine that leaks. For larger volumes of water, you’ll need a sump pump. This small pump will make a huge difference in how fast water is drained from your basement, and since it kicks in as soon as the water arrives, a sump pump can make the difference between a little standing water and a whole lot of standing water.

Contact your local foundation repair contractor to have a sump pump installed. If basement flooding is a frequent problem, you may also want to consider a battery-powered back up pump for power outages.

Make sure you address water problems in your basement promptly; instead of going away on their own, foundation moisture issues frequently snowball into moisture and mold crises. Take the time to identify and resolve the source of the moisture – you certainly won’t regret it.

Written by author and home improvement hobbyist Matt Gallo from:
www.prospectgenius.com

How do I get rid of it?

Removing mold from your home can be a tricky procedure – do it wrong and you risk releasing mold spores into the air creating or making your health issues even worse.

If you or someone in your family suffers from allergies, asthma or a weak immune system it’s probably a better idea to let someone else do the clean up for you.

If it’s impossible for you to get anyone else to do the task be sure to purchase, and use, a good quality respirator mask and goggles to protect yourself.

What can I do?

The most common solution used to cure mold is scrubbing it down with Chlorine Bleach – but here’s a little known fact—

• It’s actually worse than useless to bleach out mold. Bleach simply puts the mold into a dormant state for a while – when it wakes up it comes back with a vengeance, multiplying wildly, leaving you with a worse problem than you started with.

So, what can I do instead?

Your first step in your war against mold will be to arm yourself with a mask and eye protection to prevent giving yourself a heavy dose of mold spores while you’re cleaning. Once you’re well protected you’re ready to get started:

• Scrape away, or remove, as much surface mold as possible
• Wash the afflicted area several times with soap and water, followed by a commercial mildew remover/cleaner (you can find some “Green” mold killing products at Natural Mold Killers
• Depending on the level of the mold problem you may need to replace any damaged surfaces—anything you can’t completely clean or any surface that repeatedly suffers from mold

Unless you totally clean up the damaged area you’ll find yourself dealing with mold issues over and over again.

It keeps coming back, now what?

If you find yourself stuck with a large area of mold that just keeps coming back despite your best cleaning efforts—it’s time to call in the experts.

• If you have a large area of mold that’s beyond your abilities— it’s time to call in the experts
• If you have an area of mold hiding in a place that’s  impossible for you to effectively clean up — it’s time to call in the experts

There’s more you can do…

Calling in the experts should fix your mold problem, but unless you correct the moisture or high humidity problem, your repair job won’t last long.

If you don’t deal with the cause you’re going to find your mold problems returning, possibly even worse than the first time.

Here’s a 5 step clean up process…

1. Use a mold test kit (found at most hardware stores) to find out what type of mold you have—if you have black mold  you’ll need to call in the experts as this type of mold can be very persistent and extremely toxic
2. Remove the source of the mold —any moisture or humidity problems—make any repairs necessary
3. Scrub away the mold using the product you purchased for the purpose (remember to wear protective gear to prevent any health issues from the toxic mold spores)
4. Install any necessary equipment to keep your home dry and healthy
5. Help prevent mold by performing a regular moisture and humidity check throughout your home, be sure you’re not storing wood, cloth, paper or other porous material in your basement or other damp place

Mold is no laughing matter. If you have a mold problem in your home you need to take care of it…

TODAY!

Is Your Home Suffering…

Mold is made up of  microscopic organisms that can be found everywhere – inside and out – some of  them are good (such as penicillin) but many of them can be extremely toxic to your health.

Mold can grow on any organic surface:

• Wallpaper
• Ceiling tiles
• Carpeting
• Drywall
• Wood

In other words—if it can rot it can mold!

Mold thrives in dark, warm, moist locations – often proving difficult to spot – hiding behind walls, under surfaces, in nooks and crannies where visibility is almost nil.

Since it’s a living fungus it actually consumes its host – for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so to speak.  Your walls, curtains, carpet, etc actually provide the nutritional source for  life and growth.

During this process the mold produces organic compounds that are released into the air. It’s these compounds that are responsible for creating that musty smell so many homes have.

So How Do You Know If You Have Mold…

Some of the most common indicators/causes that mean you could be suffering from a mold infestation are:

• You had/have a plumbing leak
• You’ve experienced recent flooding
• You had/have a leaky roof
• Peeling, bubbling, discolored paint
• Swelling in the walls or ceiling
• Your bathroom stays moist for long periods of time
• Recurrent mold in the bathroom, especially in tub and/or shower areas
• There’s an unexplainable musty smell in your house
• You live in a high humidity area

Wait… There’s More!

Your health may also indicate mold issues. If you find yourself suffering from some or all of the following persistent symptoms – you may have yourself a mold problem:

• Runny nose
• Watery eyes
• Sneezing and coughing
• Dizziness
• Headaches
• Skin rash
• Throat irritation
• Repeated asthma attacks

If the above symptoms disappear when you’re away from home chances are good that you have a problem with mold. Asthmatics, infants, small children and individuals suffering from immune system deficiencies are particularly susceptible to the toxic effects of mold.

Keeping Mold At Bay…

Mold can be unsightly, smell unpleasant, and be dangerous to your health but there are a few things you can do to reduce the chance for mold’s survival in your home, particularly your bathroom.

• Mold thrives in a sealed-in, humid environment so try to keep your home well aired, open windows, use fans where ever needed, use a dehumidifier if humidity is a real problem
• Mold thrives in dark areas so use lights, UV lights would be particularly effective here
• Keep surfaces dry – mop up any leaks or spills ASAP, use some sort of heat source to help dry out areas that are particularly wet or have soaked up water
• Use mold resistant paint in moist areas of your home – particularly in the bathroom and kitchen

Next month we’ll discuss how you can effectively rid your home of mold without damaging your health.

Do You Need One?

It’s just not practical or sensible to throw open a window or run a fan during winter.  Yet all that stale and increasingly toxic air is bad for your health.

Some choice plants and a UV light system have helped to clear the air to a degree but if you really want to be sure your air is toxin-free you’ll need to find a practical method for circulating and refreshing your household air without the need for opening a window or using a fan.

Introducing the ERV…

“It’s like having a spring breeze in your home in the middle of winter.”

An ERV or Energy Recovery Ventilation system/Air Exchanger/Heat Recovery Ventilation system provides moisture control, indoor air quality, and energy recovery by:

• Bringing in fresh, outside air into the house while pumping stale, indoor air out
• The warm, stale air (summer or winter) from inside the house gives its energy to incoming warm, cool, or cold fresh air from outside

Besides providing controlled ventilation, ERV’s are able to filter, humidify, dehumidify, heat or cool the incoming fresh air.

In other words the old stale air is flushed outside and on its way out it sheds its heat – in winter, or cold – in summer, to the fresh air coming in from the great outdoors. This is done by having both air sources come very close together through separate ducts.  The air doesn’t mix but the air’s temperature does.

Image via Wikipedia

High performance ERV’s will have a heat exchange efficiency rating of about 80% in winter and 30% in summer. Some even have an air quality sensor built right into the switch to trigger the system as needed.

How they work…

The ERV uses fans to maintain a low-velocity flow of fresh outdoor air into the house while exhausting the same amount of stale indoor air.

Odors and pollutants are quickly removed from your home but the energy used to heat or condition the air is recycled in the heat exchanger and sent back into your home.

ERV’s provide the added benefit of reducing the amount of humidity from the incoming air making them a great choice for humid climates as well as offering a core defrost as an option for colder climates.

Common types of Air Exchangers…

1) The exhaust-only system – this system uses a fan to provide exhaust air while the supply air is not fan powered.

2) The balanced system – this system uses a fan-powered exhaust air flow that is designed to equal the fan-powered supply air flow

Those with heat or energy recovery are called HRV’s (Heat Recovery Ventilators) while those that trasfer heat and moisture are called ERV’s (Energy Recovery Ventilators).

Finding the right size for you…

ERV’s are typically sized to ventilate the whole house.

To calculate the size you need simply take the square footage of your house, including the basement, and multiply by the height of the ceiling to get cubic volume.

Then take that number and divide by 60 and then multiply by .35 (the minimum air changes per hour).

A final word…

As more and more of our homes are suffering from “sick home syndrome” and disease and health problem rates continue to soar—looking after the health of the air in our homes is no longer a question of “if” but “must”.

Knowing what to do about indoor air quality and moisture problems is a must. We need to become proactive in caring about the quality of the air in our homes.

Whether you choose more plants, a UV light, an ERV, or all 3 – you need to do something today.

 

 

Image via Wikipedia

The UV Light

This month we’ll look at your second line of defense – the UV light.  This relatively inexpensive addition to your home can be easily installed into your hot air furnace where it’ll help clear your home’s air from molds, bacteria, etc.

What is UV light?

UV or ultraviolet light comes in 3 distinct forms or bands:

• UV-A: is most commonly known as black light
• UV-B: this is the band that causes sunburn
• UV-C: this band is the one we’re looking for as it has proven very effective in microbial control

It’s this band, UV-C, and its ability to control microbial overgrowth that we’ll be discussing today.

How’s your air quality?

Ever wondered why you and your family seems to get sick more often during the winter than in summer?  The answer is in the air in our homes.

Did you know…

Indoor air quality is, more often than not, 2-5 times and sometimes 100 times more polluted than the worst outdoor air – and to think we spend an average of 90% of our time in this unhealthy environment.

Is it any wonder that we’re feeling rundown or sick so much of the time?

During winter (and with the advent of air conditioning – during the summer now too) we tend to keep our windows tightly shut while our forced air heater or A/C continues to recirculate stale air – filled with bacteria, molds, yeasts and viruses - throughout our home.

Your furnace or A/C provides the perfect environment for the growth and broadcast of these germs, mold, bacteria, toxins and gases. Just one gram of duct dust can contain up to 50,00 bacteria.

The longer we go without refreshing the air the more concentrated these airborne contaminants become causing increasing cases of allergic reactions, asthma, upper respiratory problems, and a large list of various illnesses. Studies show that 1 out of 6 people suffer from allergies because of the fungi and bacteria in air duct systems.

Poor indoor air quality is a problem that affects everyone - improving air quality is not really an option, but a must, if we’re ever to enjoy a full, happy and healthy life.

So how does a UV light work?

The air in your home passes through your furnace and over the UV-C lights several times an hour along with all of the airborne contaminants. The UV-C energy will attack the organism’s DNA and either destroy it immediately or prevent it from reproducing rendering them harmless.

The UV light system…

Using a UV light system will:

• Stop the growth of bacteria, fungi and molds
• Kill and/or deactivate bacteria, viruses and mold

Simply install the light in the cold air return duct near your home’s furnace or over the A/C coils.

Uv lights do not leave any residues or create any toxins to be released into the air of your home, and because the light shines on the interior of your duct or A/C your eyes will not be exposed to the light itself.

What to look for when buying…

Research has shown that within the UV-C band the most efficient microbial destroying frequency is between 254nm and 265nm. Germicidal lamps that produce the majority of their output in this range will be the most effective in microbial control/destruction.

The UV Super-hero…

The germicidal power of “C” band UV lights has been known for more than 65 years now. Hospitals, barber shops, food and commercial processing plants, laboratories, and pharmaceutical plants use UV lights for their mold, bacteria and germ killing properties.  Why shouldn’t you cash in on this simple, health-giving technology too?

Getting rid of toxic air with… Plants?!

Gardeners have known it for a long time and now science is proving it – houseplants not only add beauty to your home but they’re also a valuable weapon against indoor air pollution, absorbing harmful chemicals and improving air quality.

You’re kidding me – right?

Studies conducted in a US space center in the early 1980s provided evidence that the ability of houseplants to improve indoor air quality and your health is no longer a matter of guess-work but of scientific fact.

After more than 10 years of extensive research we now have a better understanding of how plants remove indoor pollutants.

Using ingenious methods plant can protect themselves from would-be enemies…

• Tropical plants, for instance, excrete substances that protect their leaves from airborne molds and mildew.

When these plants are placed in an indoor environment, they continue to suppress airborne mold spores. It’s these tiny microbes that are nature’s biological clea

ning machines.

Houseplants = Air sanitizers

The most common harmful airborne chemicals found in the average home are:

• Formaldehyde
• Benzene
• Trichloroethylene
• and carbon monoxide

Certain plants are excellent at ridding the air of these pollutants and toxins – the leaves absorb these chemicals from the air and transport them inside the plant tissue down to the roots.

Here the tiny microbes get to work, and because many of these chemicals have structures similar to components found in tannic and humic acids, the microbes are able to adapt and biodegrade these chemicals also.

This explains the plants’ ability to improve our indoor air quality.

Which plants are best?

Plants that rate highly as indoor purifiers include:

• Chinese evergreen
• Areca palm
• Reed palm
• Dwarf date palm
• Boston fern
• Janet Craig dracaena
• English ivy
• Australian sword fern
• Peace lily
• Rubber plant
• Weeping fig

The most effective in removing formaldehyde:

• Philodendron
• Spider plant
• Golden Pathos

The most effective in removing benzene:

• Gerbera daisy
• Chrysanthemum

All of these plants are also effective in removing low levels of carbon monoxide.

As a general rule two or more medium to large plants (14″-16″ containers) per 100 square feet of area is sufficient though more plants would be even better.

A final thought…

Plants alone may not be the total solution when you have serious indoor air quality issues, but they’re a great start.

Beautify your surroundings and breathe a little easier by adding several of these living air cleaners to your home.  You’ll feel better while making your indoor environment a pleasant place to live.

 

 

 

Is the air in your home making you sick?

Home air quality is based upon many factors that you can control.  In this article we’ll talk about common pollutants that can be found in the air you breathe and how you can find out which ones your home is suffering from.

Air quality a risk?

Did you know that the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) Science Advisory Board rated indoor air pollutants (except radon) as the 3rd highest in their list of environmental risks? Higher even than the exposure to chemicals in the occupational environment – which rated 6th.

It’s an undisputed fact that indoor air quality problems can have a major impact on your health and comfort level. Polluted air isn’t just stale air – it could be a serious threat to your health and the health of your family.

If you find yourself constantly sneezing or experiencing other signs of discomfort, you’re more than likely reacting to the pollution in your air.

Mold, mildew, allergens and other micro-organisms can cause or contribute to the development of chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma.  In some cases prolonged exposure to these pollutants can cause severe illness or even death.

Those who are usually most susceptible to these problems are young children, the elderly, and anyone with respiratory or immune system health problems.

Polluted air = Increased disease risks

Studies have shown that:

• Polluted air has been linked to the increased risk of various cardiovascular diseases, including heart failure
• Exposure to unclean air is an even greater cause for concern for those who have been diagnosed with lung disease, diabetes, and heart disease as the pollution exacerbates their symptoms

Image via Wikipedia

Bad air alert!

Air pollution within your home can come from many sources:

• Combustion sources – oil, gas, wood, coal, kerosene, and tobacco products
• Building materials
• New furniture – especially those made from pressed wood
• Wet or damp carpet
• Household cleaning products – many of which have Formaldehyde hiding in their recipe
• Outdoor air pollution

To name just a few…

These indoor pollution sources continuously release gases and/or particles into the air— inadequate ventilation, particularly during winter, can cause the pollution levels within your home to rise to hazardous levels.

High temperature and humidity levels can also increase concentrations of some pollutants – particularly those coming from pressed board furniture or cabinetry.

I don’t see anything..

Since air pollution particles are invisible to the naked eye it’s easy to think they don’t exist.  We often fail to realize just how many millions of molecules make up the air that we breathe daily, and just how many of those millions are actively dangerous for our health.

According to the EPA the number of airborne contaminants in the air inside homes far surpasses that of the air on a smoggy day.

There’s no question that the pollutants found in unclean air are a major cause for concern.

A final word…

Learning how to control your home’s air quality – reducing allergen, toxin, mold and bacteria levels is vitally important to you and your family’s health.

Next month we’ll begin a discussion on different methods you could employ to reduce the toxic load in your home’s environment.

Off-Gassing?  What on earth…

Have you ever sniffed in pleasure… or maybe dismay… at that new paint, carpet, or even furniture smell in your home?  Ever wondered what caused that smell?

It’s called OFF-GASSING or OUTGASSING.

Many building materials used in our homes or furniture such as:

• Paints
• Stains
• Varnishes
• Carpet
• Insulation
• Flooring
• Kitchen cabinets and countertops
• Plywood
• Particleboard
• Paint strippers

..can release chemicals into the air through evaporation—this is called OFF-GASSING or OUTGASSING.

Now you see it… Now you’re breathing it…

Ever noticed that persistent film that invariably seems to build up on your car’s windows? Unfortunately for our health it’s the result of chemicals offgassing into the air which then condenses onto the windows, forming that ridiculously hard to remove film.

This very same filming process is going on in your home every day – only now these  chemicals aren’t just sticking to your windows but to your lungs as well – while you work, relax and even sleep.

Carpet culprit…

We’re all familiar with that famous “new carpet” smell – but did you know that the smell is often the off gassing of harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde—which is known to cause burning of the eyes and nose, sore throat, headache, dizziness and even nausea?

Frequent exposure to higher than normal levels of formaldehyde has been proven to cause serious long-term health hazards.

To make matters even worse the US Environmental Protection Agency has classified formaldehyde as a probable human carcinogen – it causes cancer in mice, and they believe it may very well do the same to us too.

Unfortunately older carpet has its hazards as well – its a haven for sand, dirt, pet dander and dust mites.

The best solution would be to avoid carpet altogether – but that’s not always possible for all of us.  If you must get that new carpet find out if you can’t have the provider open the carpet and allow it to sit in the warehouse to offgass for awhile before they install it.

It’s in the paint…

Most paints contain VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that will off-gas at room temperature, as well as carcinogens and mutagens.

It’s a good idea to check the can for it’s VOC rating but be aware that zero VOCs doesn’t mean the paint is free from other harmful compounds like formaldehyde, acetone or ammonia.

The best solution is to purchase ecopaints and finishes which are not only healthier for you but will also lower your carbon footprint.

Good for the pocketbook but not your health…

Cheap furniture—so good for the budget, but so hard on the health.  Did you know that the particleboard used in the construction of inexpensive furniture, and sometimes even flooring uses a formaldehyde binding?

The best solution? Open up the packages in your garage or other vented area and allow to offgass for a few days—up to a week before bringing it into the house.

Other ways to minimize exposure…

Ventilate: use fans to help move the air throughout your home and if at all possible open some windows … it’s important to not only move the air but to completely refresh it.

Air purifiers: use an air purifier that’s specifically designed to remove airborne chemicals such as formaldehyde.

Furnace: Purchase a good quality filter and be sure to clean it at least once a month.